It takes about forty steps to arrive at the finished jewel. The plating is one of the most important. Our brass pieces are filed, polished, punched, then brought to the gilding workshop which gives them their final color. It is thanks to our plating also called "electrolysis gilding", that our jewelry is water resistant! Everything is done in Paris, 10 minutes from our offices!
The brass parts received, their surfaces are analyzed in order to be able to establish the price of the plating. Our team and the gilding workshop with which we work validate this together and ... it's time for the gilding!
The brass parts are attached by hand, one by one, to wires before being mounted on the "shaft" (the mounting support) which will be dipped into the "plating bath".
This step can be very long, especially if the pieces are small (this is the case for ear cuffs or mini-creoles). Dexterity, attention to detail and patience are essential!
A small metal plate is also attached to the tree for a check that will take place at a later stage (remember this!). The small colored beads are used to identify the different references, there are often several on the same tree!
Attaching the parts in this way therefore allows for an even distribution of the "plating bath" for perfect treatment!
On all our new models, you will find (sometimes in very small print) the letter "W" or the word "WAEKURA". Recently we have been putting our logo on our parts. Above, here is the machine that allows us to do this.
NB: since October 10, we have been making the punch using a laser, which is cleaner and avoids micro-scratches!
Regarding the gold plating, we do not have a hallmark. Why? This does not change the quality in any way, the 3 microns being the legal obligation. Our jewelry is simply too small to put a gold-plated fish in it! We could do it but it would generate an additional cost (0.50 cents in all transparency), and does not add anything in value to the pieces. Our promise, 3 micron jewelry with gilding in France, guaranteed by us (and our great workshop)
We would have loved to show you a bath of sparkling gold but alas, in reality, it doesn't happen like that!
You should know that there are several shades of veneer.
At Waekura, we chose to apply a light yellow color, almost beige, so that the jewel does not come out too yellow. It is also during this step that we choose the finish: matte, brushed or shiny. It is the latter that we have adopted for our pretty shiny jewels! But, in the future, if we decide to create jewelry in rose gold or silver, we will have to choose a completely different color (and a completely different metal for silver pieces)!
This is what a plating bath looks like! (photo 1 )
All these small pools contain different products (acids, alkaline copper plating baths, etc.) at various temperatures. All our parts are immersed in them 80 times! (photo 2)
They are immersed, then rinsed, and it starts again! During this treatment, the pieces take on different colors. From brass gray to pink, before becoming golden ... (photo 3)
3 micron gold corresponds to the thickness of the gold layer placed on the brass base. In the baths, the gold is in powder form.
The more time passes, the more the pieces will take on their yellow color.
In order for the gold to cover the entire surface, the pieces will, again, turn in a bath for 3 minutes. (photos 4)
We're almost there! Before finalizing the plating step, the pieces are checked to ensure that the gold layer is indeed 3 microns thick.
Remember the little metal plate attached to the "tree"? This is where it comes in! The plate is detached and then analyzed. The plate is made of steel and the gold is not yet dry, so it cracks easily. So part of the gold plating is detached and the verdict falls: 3.8 microns : it's PERFECT!
NB: At least 3 microns are required for the parts to be recognized as “gold plated”!
A final 15 minute bath and the pieces are perfect!
The "trees" are then placed in a huge machine where they will dry for a few minutes.
Last step: the "quality" team checks that all the pieces are properly plated, that the gilding covers them completely and that there are no problems.
And there you have it, some pretty gold-plated jewelry!
Now all that's left to do is to detach the pieces, wrap them individually so as not to scratch them, bring them to the office (which is right next door), reference them, take photos of them and put them online before revealing them to you!
We sincerely hope that you enjoyed this 100% transparent article. We wanted to reveal and let you discover the behind the scenes of the making of our jewelry. And this, even when it is not "instagrammable" so that you can know what you are buying!
Thanks to Anne-Marie, Fabienne and Mathieu who welcomed us so that we could show you everything, and above all
♡ THANK YOU for trusting us ♡
7 comments
Cha
Merci beaucoup pour cette découverte des coulisses !! hyper instructif :))
Frédérique
Un grand merci pour toutes les explications.
C’est tout l’art de fabriquer des bijoux de belle qualité !!
Bravo pour la fabrication en France !!
Continuez !! ♡☆
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